Talking Stone Film

Film Reviews & Headlines

So for this demonstration video we’re
going to be going through the steps of processing your film. You’ll load your
film in the film loading room in this light tight tank and then you’ll begin
the processing procedure. So the first thing you want to do when you come out
is to measure your developer. This is the first chemical that goes in our tank to
process our film and is called a film developer. We have a big tank here which
is the the first take that you might use if there is no chemistry in the used
film developer tank. So to fill our tank — for two rolls of film — we need 600 milliliters of developer so
we’ll go over to our film developer tank and measure 600. So there you see that we have 600 milliliters of chemistry. We will now take the temperature of the
developer. The temperature of the developer is very important to determining the processing time. So this is the kind of instant-read thermometer
we use. We can put that in there and while that’s reading the temperature we
can start the first step which is to pre-wet our film. The pre-wet is just water
and what we’re going to do is fill the tank. You’re only going to take off the
orange lid – the orange lid is for chemistry but you were to keep the other lid on. So
we’re just going to tilt the tank at an angle this allows the chemistry to go in
a little easier and you want the temperature of the water for the pre-wet
to be within 5 degrees either hotter or colder than the temperature of your
developer so I’m gonna start my timer over here for one minute you can also
use a timer, your watch or your phone. And we’re going to agitate the
tank. So agitation is a gentle movement of the tank. I’m tipping it once
to its side and then once to the front. and for the pre-wet we’re going to
agitate for one minute. So let’s pretend one minute has passed and then we are going to dump the water down the drain. So now I have my temperature of
the developer it’s at 70 degrees. I will try to show you this 70 degrees. We will now
view our time and temperature chart over here to find out what development time
we should use. So the kind of film I’m using is Ilford HP 5 right here and if
we go over in this row 10 minutes corresponds to 68 degrees, 9 minutes
corresponds to 70 degrees which is where we’re at so that tells us our
development time is 9 minutes. So when we’re ready we will pour our developer
into the tank and start the timer set it for nine
minutes and start agitating. So the first 30 seconds will be constant agitation. It
looks like I have a tank that’s a little leaky so I’m going to make sure that I’m
over my sink… so we’re about at 30 seconds on the timer. When I reach 30
seconds I’m going to tap my tank and let it sit for an additional 30 seconds.
Then I’m gonna continue agitating for five seconds of every 30 seconds for the
whole development time. So when I reach back up to zero on my timer here then
I’m going to agitate for about five seconds which is about two or three
inversions. Then I will tap the tank and let it rest until my timer comes back to
the 30. Then I will agitate again two to three
inversions and tap and rest and you’ll continue that for the whole development
time. When we reach the end of our development time the last 15 seconds
then we’re going to begin pouring the developer back in the tank. Depending
on where you got your film developer whether it came from the big one or the
second one will dictate where you pour it. If it came from the first one you’re
going to pour it into the tank that’s labeled USED film developer so that’s
where I’m going to pour mine. Now if you originally started with your chemistry
your developer chemistry out of the USED developer tank then that’s going to go down the drain. Okay, so we’re able to use our developer
more than once. You may wish to wear some gloves while
you work especially if you have sensitive skin or have a leaky tank like
my leaky tank. Alright, so the next step is going to be STOP BATH so that’s going
to also get 600 milliliters of chemistry that’s 600 again… pour that into my tank
and agitate again so agitation for stop bath is one minute. We’re going to
do 30 seconds agitation and then tap and let it rest okay. I’m not doing the full 30
seconds right now but you will do 1 full minute. When you’re done you’re
going to carefully choose which canister you pour your chemistry back in that it
matches the chemical, so this is stop bath it’s going back in the stop bath. The next step for our film is fixer. Fixer is really important because it makes the film not sensitive to light
anymore. So again we’re going to measure 600 milliliters… and hold our tank at an
angle… pour in the chemistry and agitate so the fixer is like the developer
you’re going to agitate for the first 30 seconds and then you’re going to tap and
let it rest for 30 seconds after that you’ll continue agitating five seconds
of every 30-second interval so after 30 seconds have passed I’m going to give it
a couple inversions and then let it rest. and our total fixer time is 5 minutes so
you’ll continue that pattern of agitation for five minutes. When five
minutes is up the fixer again is something that we save and reduce so
we’ll put it back in the FIXER. Now that your film has been in the fixer for five minutes it is
no longer sensitive to light so for the pre-wash step we can open up our tank
let’s say I have my reels inside and then turn on the water and we’re just going to
fill the tank up and rinse it 5 times make sure it fills all the way up — two —
continue to do this 5 times total.
After the fixer we will put our lid back and fill our tanks with FIXER REMOVER so
measure 600 and then that will go into our tank
again and the fixer remover is a total time of 2 minutes so again we’re going to
agitate for the first 30 seconds nice and steady and slow. We’re going to tap let
it rest and they continue at five seconds of every 30-second interval. When
that time is up again it goes back in the fix remover tank. The next step is the final
wash. It’s called the final wash but it’s not the final step we have two more
steps left. The final wash is 5 minutes with a constant flow of water. You can
either use our archival film washer which looks like this and fills up with water
and empties automatically. To do that you put the film in and turn on the water. Another thing that you can do if the film
washer is busy is just to use a running hose for 5 minutes. After the final
wash your film will go in the last step which is the wetting agent
and you don’t need the lid on for the wetting agent you can come over here and
fill up your tank. The wetting agent allows your film to dry without water
spots so you don’t want to agitate or mix it you’re just going to let it sit
still. The last step is going to be to hang your film for drying. So you’ll bring it over to the film dryer and you will use one Pec Pad — okay only one per
roll of film — and you want to get that out with dry hands then you’re going to gently break open your film reel and your film will be wet. I’m
doing this example with a dry roll but then you will fold the PEC pad
over the film and swipe the moisture off one or two swipes will be enough then
you will clip the film at the top and hang with a clothes pin at the bottom in
the drying…

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